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Hotel Galvez to pay tribute to island’s namesake
By Bernice Torregrossa
Contributor
Published July 22, 2009
GALVESTON — While Charles Dickens might look and feel right at home in Galveston at the festival named in his honor, Galveston’s namesake, Bernardo de Galvez, would likely be shocked to see his former domain. After all, when he governed the area, a vast swath of Louisiana, Texas and Mexico, Galveston was little more than a sandbar.
Although the city of Galveston rarely acknowledges the Spanish count for which it is named (and it should — if not for him, the island might still be known by its previous Spanish name, “Isla Malhada,” or “island of misfortune”), the Hotel Galvez pays tribute to him in several ways.
The hotel’s premier restaurant is named Bernardo’s and will be celebrating Bernardo de Galvez’s birthday Thursday by rolling out a new menu full of Spanish influences.
Chef Jerry Helminski has created a new menu full of influences from the Spanish, Cuban and Louisiana territories that Galvez once governed.
“My goal at Bernardo’s has always been to preserve the past and the rich history of this grand hotel while keeping an eye on the future and current guest feedback,” Helminski said. “This change reflects both of those objectives.
“I wanted to highlight our namesake while still keeping our customers wishes.”
Many of the dishes on the new lunch and dinner menu combine Spain’s most prized regional delicacies — Serrano ham and Cabrales blue cheese — with local beef and seafood.
The ham, which is dry-cured for at least a year, wraps pan-roasted sea bass, and the Cabrales cheese tops a grilled filet mignon.
The sea bass also includes a reference to other parts of Galvez’s empire in its andouille butter sauce.
Bernardo de Galvez is best known locally as a Spanish territorial governor, but perhaps more important was his aid to the American colonists in the Revolutionary War.
In 1779, his army defeated the British at Natchez, Baton Rouge, and Manchac, and by routing the British forces at Mobile in 1780, he helped to keep a Southern conduit for supplies open. Galvez also assisted the American revolutionaries with supplies and soldiers.
It was for these military victories, including later battles in Florida, that Spain rewarded Galvez with the titles of Count of Galveston and Count of Galvez. He never set foot on Galveston Island and died in 1786 at the age of 40.
With Galvez’s empire stretching across the southeastern United States and into the Caribbean, Helminski had a wide variety of culinary influences to incorporate into his tribute to Galvez.
The Spanish tradition is represented by gazpacho, garlic and saffron soup, and chicken served with a sherry sauce, while the New World flavors of yucca, black beans, bananas and andouille sausage combine in other dishes.
Helminski sees Bernardo de Galvez’s journeys as an ongoing template for culinary experimentation.
“The concept of chronicling his influences will continue, but the actual dishes will change according to the season,” he said.
Clearly, local diners should be happy both that Count de Galvez was such an enthusiastic supporter of the American Revolution, and that he governed territories with such vibrant food traditions for Helminski to synthesize.
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Monte Cuban sandwich
4 French bread slices 2 ounces seasoned liquid eggs 3 ounces shaved cured 81 ham 3 ounces shaved serrano ham 1 ounce spicy mustard 2 shaved pickles 4 ounces shredded manchego cheese
Dip bread into egg and grill on flat-top. Top bread with mustard. Top two slices with pickles.
Warm both hams on flat-top and place on pickles. Top with manchego and remaining bread slices.
Secure sandwich with toothpicks and serve with yucca fries.
— Recipe courtesy of Chef Jerry Helminski, The Hotel Galvez
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Gazpacho
4 Roma tomatoes, diced 1/2 cup cucumber, seeded, diced 1 shallot, diced 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar 4 garlic cloves, smashed 2 cups V-8 Juice 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro 1 tablespoon chopped mint 1 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 ounce Tabasco Salt and pepper to taste
To Garnish 1 cup lump crab meat 1 avocado 6 sprigs cilantro
Place all ingredients in a blender and purée until smooth.
Pour into soup bowls and garnish with cucumber, crab, avocado and cilantro.
— Recipe courtesy of Chef Jerry Helminski, The Hotel Galvez
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